Author: Yarstions

Tree root sprouts, commonly called suckers, sometimes grow around the base of several tree species, including crabapple. Crabapple trees (Malus) are in the Rosaceae family, and many varieties, like “Profusion” and “Indian Summer,” are hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. When a crabapple tree is beneath a certain amount of anxiety, it starts to spread itself by creating shoots, or suckers, from its root system. All these suckers drain energy and other resources from the parent plant, causing more pressure for the tree and also more suckers. The best method to prevent a crabapple tree from generating suckers is to take preventive measures and keep the tree as healthful as possible. Factors like drought, overwatering, extensive pruning, diseases and insects threaten and pressure that a crabapple tree. Establish a watering hose at the bottom of the crabapple tree, and use it to water the…

An apricot tree blooms profusely in spring, creates stone fruit in summer and provides colorful foliage in autumn. Apricot trees (Prunus armeniaca) remain relatively small, especially when grown on dwarf rootstock, and also grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. They require a pruning schedule that differs from that of other stone fruit trees in the Prunus family. With proper management, including yearly maintenance pruning, one apricot tree can create up to four bushels of fruit. Timing An apricot tree requires pruning in mid- to late summer. Pruning your apricot in late August gives it the best chance of avoiding diseases brought on by wet conditions while it has fresh pruning wounds. Apricot fruit usually ripens in July and August, giving you time to prune after fruiting but well before the wet season. You may have to delay pruning to prevent stressing the tree in…

The lawn tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is a tender, heat-loving plant which needs a quite long frost-free season. Gardeners usually extend the tomato season by starting plants inside and putting out well-developed transplants shortly following the normal last frost date. An early autumn frost, however, can bring a premature end to your own tomato plants, so that it makes sense to consider the possible advantages of frost protection. The Effects of Frost “Frost” is a common term that’s actually of little use to gardeners. Cold temperatures affect various plants in various ways, and the harshness of plant injury brought on by low temperatures is affected by several factors, such as the duration of the low temperatures, the wind speed along with also the garden’s microclimate. However, tomatoes are quite tender, therefore it is safe to assume that any night with temperatures near or below 32 degrees F will cause substantial damage…

Unless your tomato plant produces blossoms, it will not produce tomatoes. Develop a tomato plant that is well-suited for your climate. Otherwise, the plant probably will not produce fruit and blooms as anticipated. In a climate with moderate summer temperatures and cool nights around 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit, develop varieties such as Carmelo, Valerie, Large Red Cherry and Bingo. Then carefully care for your tomato plant in the get-go to raise and get as many flowers as possible for optimum tomato creation. Water a tomato plant deeply with 1 to 2 inches of water every watering session to help it develop a deep, extensive root system. The better the root system, the more blossoms your plant will create. Water only when the soil feels dry to the touch approximately 3 to 4 inches deep. If, however, the plant remains in its transplant pot, water when the soil is dry…

Commonly referred to as snowball bush, Viburnum opulus “Roseum” is a deciduous shrub cultivar precious for its round, white flower clusters and spreading growth habit. It grows well within U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 8, in which it can reach a rise of 8 to 12 feet with a 15-foot spread. Snowball bushes are flexible and will thrive with small hands or maintenance. But they perform best with occasional pruning to improve their form and foliage production. Step out 1 part bleach and 3 parts water in a bucket. Soak a set of sharp, sturdy pruning shears in the way of approximately five minutes to sanitize them. Wash them well and let them air dry prior to use. Prune the snowball bush in early summer to promote new, new growth. Wait until after the flowers fade. Cut back the oldest stems to ground level, in addition…